After changing the sparkplug again, the bike ran fine and the morning sun was glorious and warm! The plains below the mountain pass of Tizi n Test was dotted with Argan trees and to reach the delicious nuts goats apparently climb the trees. We stopped at a feminine cooperative where we were shown the long and laborious process of extracting the oil from the Argan nuts, it smells very nice and the young educated lady said it is good for everything! We bought some oil for cooking but also soap and Hammam scrubbing soap.
When we stopped for a photo of the fantastic views, 2 guys on a moped signed to us what we thought was a “do you want us to take a picture of you 2”. But after they stopped they wanted a pic of them on my bike! I nearly charged then 100 dirhams!
The road narrowed and steepened and as we were riding on the valley side of the road, I told Sue I didn’t like heights, and that I get dizzy if I’m up too high. I’m not sure what she shouted at me through the helmet, I just heard some laughing and shouting about something, anyway her hold on me tightened, which was nice!
As we came up to the top of the ‘Test we stopped for some lunch. When I showed the proprietor; Hassan, the picture of me and Mike from last year he became delirious, dancing around laughing. He hugged and kissed us and we took photos of us and his family. His son is now helping with the restaurant and they are also finishing off a six room hostel after 4 years of work.
On the way down we just had to stop a few times to enjoy the scenery, we arrived at Hotel Du Pacha in the evening.
Mileage: 149
Mike and Mark –
The rain stopped for long enough to dry our bivies and pack up, we had stayed remarkably dry, we took shelter for an hour as another belt of rain came through, then took off down the coast.
El Jadida on the Atlantic coast is known for the 27 types of effluent it produces. With a skyline and smell rivalled only by Port Talbot, it has become the centre for ‘toxic tourism’ boasting several unique species of animal. The area produces phosphates (Morocco’s biggest export) and clearly is the area’s biggest employer, which is why the locals put up with the pollution. Carried on up the coast looking for some overnight accommodation in one of the sea side resorts – nothing. All private apartments- went to Bouznika (a large town) to try luck. Pulling off the road into a small roadside puddle, found myself in a ‘you’ve been framed moment’. I surfaced moments later, my panniers providing a degree of buoyancy, and my sailing experience proving invaluable. After proving the bikes’ sea worthiness’ we asked a local copper for directions to a hotel. A town with no hotels! He pointed us in the direction of Rabat, we rode on. Arriving tired and in the middle of the night did not enamour me to Rabat, a city that seems to consist of unlit road works, aggressive drivers and general non-friendly Muslim types, ended up in a hotel that we would have preferred not too! Expensive with arrogant staff (infidel treatment again)
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